My Portugal from A to Z: D is for Medieval Gothic Architecture?!?

I have started a series that revolves around the alphabet. I've already covered A to C. There are a number of other bloggers who have also started their own alphabets on all kinds of subjects, check them out over at My Personal A to Z Challenge.

D covers an artist whose name you are probably not familiar with.

D=Diogo Boitaca (c1460-1527) Court Architect. Worked with Mateus Fernandes (d.1515). Boitaca worked at the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisboa, as well as the monasteries at: Batalha, Setúbal, Santa Cruz at Coimbra and Guarda's Cathedral. The Manueline architectural style is a variation of the mature (aka Late or Flamboyant, esp.in France) Gothic that became prevalent in Europe in late 15th century. Manueline specifically is popular during the early decades of the 16th century (with exception of its comeback--on trend during the 19th century)

How do you know you're looking at a medieval Gothic building anyway? Although not a complete guide, here are a few things to look out for.

• Is it a church or palace? This is reflection of the main patrons of large-scale surviving architecture of the time and usually where you'll find this style. (Here I'll be referring to churches or chapels, rather than residential architecture)

St-Pierre de Beauvais, France. Still standing.
Image from Wikipedia

• Is it really tall? One of the dangerous trends of the period was the construction of buildings that seem to physically reach to the heavens. (Remember this is done without reinforced concrete). There are many stories of catastrophe during construction--the most famous is probably the building, collapse and rebuilding of St-Pierre de Beauvais in northern France. Beauvais is Gothic taken to its extreme limits. It still stands by the way, although it's incomplete. 

• Does it have a three-portal, two-towered facade with a large rose window? Yes, there are always exceptions to the rule but stand in front of the building and take a look. Many churches retained elements of this facade that was made popular in previous eras. You should also spot a stained glass window or a rose window--large circular stained glass window in the middle of a facade.

• Does it seem like every arch is pointed? Check the window frames, doorways, look down the archway in the nave (central aisle) and look up to the ceiling. The arch is a basic yet strong form that can withstand quite a bit of weight. But Gothic builders take the rounded arch and slowly make its top pointed. This helped to make it withstand a taller (thus heavier) structure. But it also becomes a decorative trend, so you see in spots where it has no structural reason to be there. 

• Are there flying buttresses? In order to support the weight of a heavy roof on the outer walls, buttressing is used (you'll notice the thicker walls with sections that seem to jut out at the walls' bottoms). But these structures were taller (and heavier) than traditional buttressing could handle-thus the invention of flying buttresses. These look like fingers that come out of the buttresses and attach themselves to the upper parts of the outer walls.

• Does it seem like there is decoration all over the place? With the exception of Cistercian Gothic (ex. Alcobaça), where everything is ultra clean and minimalist by comparison, the Gothic will be very decorative. There can be big stained glass windows, decorative columns, sculptures on the doorways (portals), etc. Every surface had the potential to educate (mostly illiterate viewers) and so the art (the windows, the sculptures etc) formed a visual language.

• What about that ceiling? The skeleton of the vaulting system used to support the roof will be evident. It'll look like a confusing mass of lines but it's actually a highly-calculated roofing system (that is sometimes obscured by decorative ribs but the pattern is there).

But how do you know you're looking at a Manueline Gothic building?

Cloister,  Jeronimos Monastery, Lisboa
Image from Wikimedia Commons

• Are you in Portugal? Although pan-European, sub-styles evolve like English Gothic versus French Gothic versus Manueline. The Manueline is a composite of various other Gothic styles with a bit of its own panache thrown in.

• What does the sculptural decoration look like? Aside from the obvious religious imagery; other decorative characteristics may include themes related to navigation (instruments, ropes etc), the ocean (shells, coral branches and the like).

• "Hey, wait a minute, you said Gothic arches are always pointed-why am I seeing rounded arches in the doorways and windows?  etc etc."    What can I tell you, rules are made for exceptions... 

And lastly--who was the Manuel that Manueline is named after? That would be Dom Manuel I (1469-1521) who ruled during one of Portugal's most prosperous economic periods. Like a lot of artistic and architectural styles, the name was given during the 19th century.
If you wish to pay your respects, King Manuel I is at the Jerónimos Monastery, while Diogo Boitaca is buried at Batalha's Monastery.

Links for the Lusophile: Week of 06 February 2012

This week's short listing of links are in Portuguese, Spanish and English

A new exhibition of Fernando Pessoa's works will be on display at Lisbon's Gulbenkian Institute until April 2012.

For those of you who are into contemporary fado and/or are Ana Moura fans, check out a recent review of her show in New Bedford, MA and another article on her New York show.

You can check out the writers, designers and illustrators who will headed to the Bologna's Children's Book Fair in March 2012.  If your literary interests fall elsewhere, there is also a  review (in Spanish) on valter hugo mãe's work.

Reviewing Barry Hatton, The Portuguese: A Modern History

Barry Hatton, The Portuguese: A Modern History. Northampton MS: Interlink Books, 2011
ISBN: 978-1-56656-844-9

It's not often that I find a book on Portuguese history written in English, so I decided to read this new book by writer and journalist Barry Hatton. The first thing that struck me was the title that emphasizes the people of the country--after all they are the ones who make up the country and therefore its history, right? I knew that I was in for something a little different.

In the preface, Hatton is explicit on why he wrote this book. It's a subject that he is very knowledge of (he's been a Lisbon-based foreign correspondent for more than 2 decades) but it is also a country that is not well known abroad. He also raises one question about Portugal that will guide the entire book: "What happened to us?" A simple question that has no simple answer. A couple of preliminary thoughts are presented: Is it due to the language? Could the difficulty to break into tight social and familial circles be a possible reason?

The first analogy presented is based on the forcados--a uniquely Portuguese event that seems to venerate what appears to be poor odds for the team of fellows in the ring versus the touro. Perhaps it is the most fitting analogy in the entire book since success in a pega is never a sure thing either.

Hatton leads us on a journey through history, touching on various successes and failures in culture, politics, and economics. He seamlessly combines the anecdotal (such as watching the forcados) with historical information, keeping a good pace through even the denser parts of the book. The internal frictions such as the relationship between the rural and the urban as well as city rivalries are discussed first. Then he moves to more broad-based issues, tackling the relationships with neighbor Spain and with longtime ally England. Colonialism and slavery and the complex ambivalence in relation to these topics are also covered.

I think Hatton excels in the latter part of the book, where he discusses the twentieth century. He navigates through the various political changes and their socio-cultural effects. He also covers the post-colonial era, the waves of immigration and emigration, entry into the EEC and more recent economic and political events. He also introduces some cultural traits with discussions on musical and literary genres. He even tackles the concept of saudade--but not by offering a definition but rather by demonstrating the complexities of loaded (and dare I say overused and often over-simplified) terms. He presents the country and its people as far more complex than the familiar stereotypes would suggest.

My favorite chapter has to be Slow Food Nation where he discusses the customs and rituals around food. He notes the custom of long meals and the various dishes that you might encounter at these meals (some better known than others). He touches on the importance of wine and coffee within the culture (I completely agree that the coffee is as good as what is found in Italy!), ending with a brief introduction to firewater. I couldn't help but be reminded of the time I had lunch at a rural restaurant. The house firewater was poured from a plastic water container with a short notation as to avoid any confusion of its contents--as if the smell wouldn't clue you in!

The Portuguese: A Modern History is readable yet detailed. Subjects are discussed without falling into sentimentality. There is little romanticizing of flaws but it's clear that the flaws are also part of what makes Portugal so irritatingly attractive.


Let me know what you think about this or any other books that are reviewed here. Do you have a favorite history book about Portugal?

RTP Açores covers some interesting themes concerning North Americans of Portuguese descent. There are discussions concerning literary and socio-cultural issues. An ongoing thread through many of the interviews is the link to food. This shows the importance of keeping gastronomic customs. Who knew that a simple soup (or other comfort dish) could inspire so much!

Food Links for the Lusophile: Week of 30 Jan., 2012

I see so many great food links and I keep trying to gather them up for you every month or so. Here are some of the latest in (mostly) English and Portuguese.

There is a new promotional website for the Douro Valley with an English version to be launched soon. In the meantime, here's an article on Douro wines that points to the use of lesser known grape varieties.

And check out this interview with a winemaker.

Emma's House in Portugal  recently tackled that rather large subject: bread. She has mentioned some of the essentials like the papo seco (whose pricing I might add is often the basis for a discussion on the economy:  ie."The papo seco has gone up in price again." has been the center of TV news stories in the past).

Tia Maria's Blog makes a version of seafood rice she calls a mariscada (sometimes known as arroz de marisco). Looks good!

The pastel de nata has been getting quite a bit of press lately. Recently, it was the subject (perhaps a poor example?) of a hypothesis on international trade and finding new markets (subsequent debate didn't seem to get beyond the custard). What is clear is that this custard tart is iconic and Eat Portugal shows you how to make it.

All olive oil produced in Europe's southwestern region will have eco standards set by 2013.

Update on DISQUIET program--Deadline Extension

If you are a North American writer/editor/translator etc. with a genealogical link to or a general interest in Portugal &/or lusophone countries, you may have heard of Disquiet, a workshop/conference that had its inaugural program last summer.

It appears that the contest deadline for the lit award and scholarships has been extended to February 8, 2012. This will be a slight reprieve for those of you who have been thinking about applying.

My Portugal from A to Z: A to C

I was reading a couple of blogs recently that are covering Portugal by the alphabet.  What a terrific idea from Julie Dawn Fox in Portugal's blog! I've decided to start my own listing and join the fun.

Today, I'll cover A to C.

A=Algarve. It's the southernmost region of the country. The first time I remember travelling to the Algarve, I was a young teenager. There are a number of lasting memories from that trip: the pastry shop with all the little fruit-shaped marizipan confections; crystal blue waters as warm as a bath; tree branches hanging heavy with alfarroba and trying fresh figs for the first time.

B=Bica. One of the terms used for an espresso (pronounced BEE-ka). Portugal has a rather complicated coffee culture. There are all sorts of names for various coffee drinks and they may vary depending on where you are in the country. But don't be alarmed--there are certain terms that are understandable anywhere--so yes, you can order an espresso but try using bica instead. A bica is the one thing that is always guaranteed to be good no matter where you are: a fancy cafe in the city or at a quiet tavern in a small village.

C=Calçada. The name of the sidewalk made up of small square cobblestones. They are characteristic of this region and you will also see it in places like Brazil. They can be made up of elaborate decorations or of simple patterns. The geometry and linearity remind me of mosaics as well as the tile work you will also encounter while travelling about. I can also see it in the work of artists like Vieira da Silva (1908-1992), who had a definite linear quality in her modernist paintings.